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Our Magnificent Journey
Chapter 13
Greece, Turkey and Spain


At the Parthenon  
Day 12

The fun-loving group of Aussies neighbors left early in the morning and we had Lithies all to ourselves.


Maria brought us another wonderful breakfast of cereal, hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, honey, sweet bread, juice, cheese and Greek coffee on the patio in the cool early morning breeze.


We love Lithies – the beauty, quiet, serenity and peace are priceless. Our suite of rooms – cave-like - are clean, modern, large and comfortable. Maria, Alex and the other staff are worth their weight in gold and continually have gone far beyond the “call of duty” to make us totally comfortable. Our stay at Lithies Traditional Homes is an experience we will treasure forever.


Around 10 am we found the quiet pathway to Fira that Maria had told us about – quick, photo-worthy and no tourists. In 10 minutes we were in frenetic Fira. Several cruise ships arrived in the night so the streets and shops are buzzing. The day is bright, sunny and warm.

View from Fira
Carrying fish in Fira
Cruise ships come and go in Santorini

Stopped for a cold coke at a rooftop café called Ampelos overlooking the volcano and cruise ships. The view of the islands and the Aegean from this height is stunning. The panoramas are breathtakingly beautiful.

Carol on Santorini

Outside of the Aussies, who are here in great numbers, we are hearing very little English.

Statue in Fira

Stayed at the Ampelos long enough to become hungry so we enjoyed sardines in tomato and garlic sauce, fava bean spread with onions, brown bread with kalamata olive pate and sparkling water. The Ampelos, high above the shops, streets and tourists, affords incredible views and cool breezes in the shade.

Carol at Ampelos in Fira

Left Ampelos and took our time wandering along the crowded shop-lined alleyways. Four cruise ships below in the harbor relinquished their passengers, who now throng around us in the thousands.

Carol and David in Fira

Carol had lost an earring last night and we found it safely under a bench we had sat at last night as we watched the large ships slowly find their way into the harbor.

Window in Fira

Back at Lithies we rested and packed for tomorrow’s three-flight trip to Turkey. We will most assuredly miss Santorini.


At 6 pm we walked up the hill just a little way to Restaurant Pirouni, owned by brothers Giannis and Franco and their mother and father. This small family-owned restaurant provided us with the best meal of our trip so far – bread and kalamata tapenade, feta dip, incredible dolmades with tsatziki, and a grilled red snapper to die for. A most unforgettable experience and we highly recommend Restaurant Pirouni.

One of the brothers at Restaurant Pirouni on Santorini
David with the brothers at Restaurant Pirouni on Santorini
David and Carol at Restaurant Pirouni on Santorini
Restaurant Pirouni on Santorini

After the delicious dinner we walked a block and sat on a bench in the cool of the evening and watched the cruise ships set sail towards the horizon. We were so high up on the caldera that we could still see the lights of the ships even though they were many miles out in the Aegean steaming away from us.

Enjoying the cool Santorini evening

At 9 pm we wandered back to Lithies and sat on the poolside terrace and called Carol’s Dad Hal who had, at 90, recently fallen and fractured his hip. He is recovering surprisingly well and it was wonderful to talk to him.


Maria noticed we were on the terrace so she came down from the office with a tray of while wine, nuts and crackers. We thanked her profusely and we cannot recommend Lithies highly enough. Maria herself is reason to stay here, and we would love to take her home with us. She is in constant motion – cleaning, organizing, cooking, helping with travel arrangements. She is truly a gem, as is Lithies.


While we sat outside, a street cat came and jumped on our laps and purred contentedly as we wrapped her in our sweatshirts. Too soon it was time for bed and we had to say goodnight to our new feline friend and farewell to this paradise called Santorini.


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