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Our Magnificent Journey
Chapter 6
Europe 2005
London, Paris, Normandy, Prague

 

Carol and David  
05.02.05
Monday
Day 11
Normandy
 
 

We slept like babies. The songs of the frogs and nightbirds soothed us through the night, along with the cool breeze wafting through the large open window. Best night's sleep for me in many weeks.

 

The morning has started out cool, grey and damp, not unlike June 6, 1944.

 

We rose, showered in the modern bathroom, dressed and went downstairs for Margaret's planned 8:30am breakfast.

 

Staircase at L' Atre Fleuri

 

We spend a very pleasant hour chatting with Margaret over a delicious breakfast of juice, toast, yogurt, ham, cheese, coffee and croissants. Margaret, from Arizona like us, is a very interesting, intelligent, well-traveled woman, and we wish we could have spent more time with her. She has done an amazing job designing and appointing this lovely B&B, down to details like our 100-year-old sheets. Margaret puts a lot of time, effort, money, energy and love into her linens. Not every B&B can offer this sort of quality. Her husband Jim is retired USAF and works as a business consultant in England. They are a wonderful, charming and interesting couple, and very gracious hosts.

 

Carol and Margaret

 

The lovely dining room at L' Atre Fleuri

 

Flowers in the garden at L' Atre Fleuri

 

 
This wonderful B&B is located at 12 Rue des Etangs, 14490 Balleroy, France; Tel: +33-(0)231510320. Visit the website at http://www.nighty-night.net/. Email latrefleuri@yahoo.com.
 

Short drive back into the lively/lovely town of Bayeux . Parked the car, made reservations for the bus tour of the D-Day beaches, then we spent some time touring the large Cathedral of Notre Dame. We then window-shopped up and down Rue St. Martin, then found nice, shady and delicious La Pergola (quiche for Carol, Croque Monsieur for moi) on Rue St. Jean.

 

Normandy cobbles

 
Normandy cobbles

 

Bayeaux flowers

 

House in Bayeaux

 

Inside the Cathedral of Bayeaux

 

Carol enjoying Bayeaux

 

After lunch we walked to Rue Quebec, near where the Bayeux tapestry is housed, to to wait for the Gold Beach Tour. And this is right where Sophie found us. Sophie was the perfect guide for us (and we had her all to ourselves) - funny, charming, knowledgeable, patient and very informative. Sophie started us out at Arromanches, where the innovative artificial harbor, truly a master feat of engineering wizardry, was constructed off-shore in the days following D-Day (June 6, 1944) to provide a harbor large enough to bring ashore the tons of material and supplies needed to support the Allied forces. We spent some time in the D-Day Museum, and the two films there were quite enlightening. Next, Sophie took us to the German batteries/bunkers at Longues-Sur-Mer, all along the way providing us with information about the events of 60 years ago. From Longues-Sur-Mer we drove to the massive, pristine and emotional U.S. cemetery near Omaha Beach. Then Sophie showed us Omaha Beach itself. Our last stop was Pont du Hoc, where American Rangers scaled a massive cliff over the English Channel to rout the Germans fortified there. Pont du Hoc resembled the moon – the craters from US air strikes and ship artillery are there, to this day, reminders of the horror of that day and testimony to the bravery of those young Rangers, most of whom paid the ultimate sacrifice.

 

One of the Normandy beaches

 

Artillery outside the D-Day Museum

 
A German bunker
 

 

The American Cemetery

 

Carol and Sophie

 

Artillery

 

Carol and David at Pont du Hoc

 

Carol looking at the tall cliffs that our Rangers had to scale at Pont du Hoc

 

Sophie and David

 

The 4-hour tour was informative, very emotional, and yet much fun, thanks to Sophie's easy, bubbly and cheerful personality. We highly recommend seeking her out – you can find her at evasion@goldbeach-fi.com.

 

We were sad to have to say goodbye to Sophie, but our next adventure was a 1.5 hour drive from Bayeux to Mont St. Michelle, 120km to the southwest. We bought sandwiches and juice, jumped in our little Renault, made one quick W.C. stop for Carol at the B&B, then we were off. We passed through many beautiful, picture-postcard-perfect tiny French villages and past km after km of rolling, green pastoral farmland, dotted with patch-eyed cows and lazy sheep.

 

Soon in the distance we could make out the spire of le Mont St. Michele on its solitary rock. As we approached, its majestic beauty, set alone in the midst of the bay, became very apparent. The water was at low tide, and we snapped many photos. It is a quasi cathedral/fortress, surrounded by treacherous waters when the tide is high and quicksand when the tide is low. It is dangerous to go wandering around the outside without a guide.

 

Carol and David at Mont St. Michele
 

Mont St. Michele

 

Mont St. Michele
 

The sun was beginning to set at 8:30pm. It was actually light out until 10:00pm which is a novelty to us from Arizona, where it is dark by 8pm.

 

Just after leaving le Mont St. Michele, we stopped at a quaint little roadside house/calvados/cider distillery, where we bought camembert cheese, crackers, delicious sweet pear juice and a bottle of Bordeaux wine. The proprietor, a kindly gentleman, had a playful German Shepherd named Snookie who took a liking to us and wanted to play.

 

Carol and Snookie

 

Carol says goodbye to Snookie

 

We had to say goodbye to Snookie and his “papa,” then drove back to Balleroy. Carol took a relaxing soak in the Jacuzzi tub, and we fell into bed after a full, interesting and fun day in Normandy. I fell asleep thinking of all the young soldiers who had made the ultimate sacrifice all those years ago...

 

Carol enjoying the bath

 

Pedometer reading for today - 7.25 miles


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