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Our Magnificent Journey

Chapter 7

New Orleans

 

10.08.06 Sunday Day 3

I drove my Chevy to the levee but the levee was gone...

We woke, refreshed, at 7:30, showered, dressed and ventured downstairs to the dining room for breakfast, which Angela had once again prepared to the nth degree.

We had scheduled a tour of the city with Tours by Isabelle (http://www.toursbyisabelle.com/ 504.391.3544 info@toursbyisabelle.com) as suggested by both Larry and Angela. We were going to be picked up at the B&B at noon, so at 11 we drove the few blocks to City Park and wandered through the pastoral, peaceful, shady sculpture garden.

Ginny, from Tours by Isabelle, picked us up at exactly noon and drove us in her van down Canal Street to the CBD area, where we picked up several other passengers. Ginny is on a personal mission to rescue as many of the pets that were lost, abandoned, and neglected as a result of Katrina. Her own home suffered severe damage, but she is on a mission and she manages to rescue several animals a week. She told us several harrowing stories. Often she has been able to reunite pets with their owners. She, like Angela, Michael and Larry, is an encyclopedia of information about New Orleans, the storm, its aftermath and its impact.

The next several hours were spent in Ginny's van as she led us through all parts of New Orleans, both the devastated areas as well as the few areas left high and dry. She shared several stories with us, some tragic, some enlightening. It continues to amaze us at how totally the government and the “system” has failed these people, on all levels. It seems like the only bright light post-Katrina are the many “average” folks from around the world, and from right here in NOLA, who volunteer their time, efforts, and money, often at great risk under dangerous situations. People like Ginny, whose own home was devastated, but has been on a mission of her own to rescue as many lost pets as she can.

Photo by Marybeth Dyment

80% of this entire city was under water. On trees, telephone poles and walls, the water line is a constant reminder of the savage storm. Its like the whole city has a bathtub ring around it. Interestingly, many of the mega-million-dollar homes along the Lake were spared due to the old-fashioned earthen levee there. Ginny showed us where the flood waters breeched the 17th Street levee and the London Street levee. We saw where the mysterious barge crashed through the levee along the Industrial Canal in the Ninth Ward. She took us to the worst-hit areas – St. Bernard Parish and the Lower Ninth Ward. We were shocked at what we saw, more than a year after the storm. 100% of St. Bernard Parish was devastated. It looks like someone made a disaster movie there and left the set up. The scene of destruction runs block after block, mile after mile, as far as the eye can see. Only recently did the first grocery store open up; the parking lot was overflowing.

Although we were greatly saddened and shocked by the current conditions, we are glad to be here, spending money and hopefully, through these writings, bringing much-needed attention to the plight of these Americans, who, although having lost all, have somehow managed to retain their dignity, grace and even their sense of humor. Carol and I are humbled and inspired.

We said goodbye to Ginny when we found ourselves back in the French Quarter at the end of the informative and emotional 4 ½ hour tour. We thanked her for the well-organized and well-executed tour.

We then spent the next hour ambling through the French Quarter, although we felt more numb than anything, after the scenes we had seen around the city. We did stop for a bite to eat at the Desire Oyster Bar again, glad to be spending money and hopefully helping the local economy.

We enjoyed our dinner and then walked back out onto Bourbon Street with the intention of involving ourselves in some world-class people-watching. However, after about 20 seconds we agreed that the high-volume of noise, the less than attractive odors, and the alchohol-addled party-goers were a turn-off and we hightailed it to Canal Street where we caught the streetcar north to Carrolton, walked the short block to Pierce and the comfortable and quiet B&B. Along the slow ride north, our driver, a friendly woman, explained the process of becoming a streetcar driver. I don't believe I have ever met a more friendly and hospitable group of people than these New Orleanians.

At 8:30PM we found ourselves alone at the 1896 O'Malley House. Carol took a relaxing Jacuzzi bath while I emailed brother Jim, visited with Angela and Michael after they returned, and then Carol and I fell asleep after a full day of exploration.

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